THE VOCABULARY OF PERFUME FOR THE USE OF YOUR NOSE

The vocabulary of perfume can be complicated and its subtleties difficult to master. Sometimes you can even feel lost in the complexities of perfume types and their compositions. The vocabulary of perfume has always borrowed a lot from the vocabulary of music: “notes” and “accords” are part of a perfumer’s everyday life. And one of the designer’s best-known working tools is called the “perfume organ”. So, just for you, we have created a glossary of terms from the world of perfume to help you better understand it all!

Absolute

An absolute is one of the possible results in the different methods of manufacturing a perfume. It can be the product of enfleurage or solvent extraction (using alcohol). The plants macerate in the solvent for several days, which loads it with odorous matter. The mixture is boiled to allow the solvent to evaporate, leaving only the concrete matter. After days (or months) of washing, glazing, and filtration, we finally obtain a limpid, pure, and very expensive material: the absolute.

Accord

In the vocabulary of perfume as in music, an accord is composed of a few ingredients or simple notes that create harmony. An accord can serve as a base, or the backbone of a fragrance. For example, the chypre accord is a classic accord (a mixture of ingredients that never changes) that can be found in all fragrances belonging to the Chypre family.

Alcohol

The alcohol used in perfumery is a solvent or diluent. A solvent is used for the extraction of raw materials. Its diluting function allows the fragrant concentrate to diffuse well on the skin when you spray it. In effect, what smells in a perfume is the concentrate. This must be diluted, and alcohol is usually chosen because it is odorless and evaporates quickly! So, as soon as the perfume is applied, the alcohol disappears immediately. The concentrate then remains on the skin and diffuses its smell throughout the day by progressive evaporation of the odorous molecules. The percentage of concentrate diluted in alcohol determines whether it is an eau de cologne, eau de toilette, or eau de parfum. At Sillages Paris, we only use a natural beet alcohol.

Aldehyde

Aldehydes are a large group of synthetic molecules that became legendary when they first appeared in the 1920s. In fact, without aldehydes, Chanel N°5 would not exist! Despite their synthetic origin, some of them exist in their natural state in the peel of citrus fruits. The aldehyde notes smell very clean, but depending on the type, they can also have a metallic, greasy, or warm smell. With white musks, it’s the fragrance’s star notes that smell clean. They can smell like candle wax, steam, or soap. Aside from their undeniable olfactory qualities, they also serve to give power, shine, and volume to fragrances.

Amplitude

In the vocabulary of perfume, we speak of fullness, volume, or power to define a fragrance that diffuses. A powerful fragrance will diffuse in the air at a greater radius around the wearer. The fullness or power is not necessarily linked to the duration of a perfume on the skin. Thus, some light perfumes (floral or even new colognes) can last all day without diffusing as much. So we’re talking about a perfume for yourself. A strong perfume is made to be smelled by others when they approach you or even when you enter a room!

Animal

Originally, an animal scent described a perfume that literally contained ingredients of animal origin. These were often characterized by the smells of skin, leather, fur, sweat (or even faeces!). Usually originating from or near the genital glands of small animals, these ingredients such as musk tonkin, civet or castoreum literally smelled like sex (and excrement). These ultra-sensual smells were widely used for seduction, evoking the “animal” side of humans. But nowadays, most perfumers have stopped using ingredients that are obtained through the exploitation of animals. Sillages Paris, for example, is a completely vegan brand. In the vocabulary of perfume, we use the term animal notes when referring to sexy perfumes. These scents use notes that vaguely recall the very intense animal notes of yesteryear, but in much softer compositions. 

Aromatic

The term “aromatic” describes both ingredients and an olfactory family. The ingredients that characterize it have long been used by healers (and witches!) for their healing and captivating properties. Among them are plants like angelica, basil, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, and mint. An aromatic facet defines perfumes with lemon, menthol, camphor, anise, and lavender notes. This large family works well with citrus notes that are fresh and bright, or spicy notes for more pep and spice.

Aromatherapy / aromachology / olfactotherapy

Aromatherapy, which in ancient Greek means “cure through perfume”, precisely refers to the medical use of essential oils which have powerful active ingredients that can relieve many ailments. But with many new studies proving that smell alone has an effect on health, two new terms have appeared. Aromachology is a science that defines more broadly the impact of odours on behaviour. And olfactotherapy is a therapy that uses the sense of smell to achieve well-being.

Although aromatherapy is the best known alternative healing method, aromachology and olfactotherapy are no less powerful! In fact, the sense of smell is the only sense directly linked to our brain. It instantly activates our limbic system, the area of the brain responsible for emotions and memory. The terms aromatherapy, aromachology, and olfactotherapy are concerned precisely with this powerful link that connects us to our nose!

Blotter / scented paper

In the vocabulary of perfume, a blotter indicates a strip of paper used to smell a perfume and to follow its evolution. We also call these “scenter paper”.

Capiteux

We use this adjective to designate a perfume whose intensity goes to our head, intoxicating us.

Character

The character of a perfume is what makes it unique and distinguishes it from others. This can also apply to a chord or a note.

Chypre

In perfume vocabulary, the term “Chypre” or “Chypré” has nothing to do with the country and its island! In fact, it designates both a famous accord and the olfactory family to which it gave birth. In 1917, the perfumer François Coty launched a perfume called “Chypre” that was a huge success. It was made up of a very new accord composed of oakmoss, but also cistus, patchouli and bergamot. The great chypre family has since then given birth to many legendary perfumes.

Citrus

It is an olfactory family comprising fresh and sparkling perfumes made from citrus zest (like eau de cologne).

Composition

In the vocabulary of perfume, as in music, a composition designates a set of notes that give birth to a work. It designates the product obtained by the perfumer at the end of his creative work!

Concentration

This term refers to the proportion of raw material concentrate in the perfume in relation to the amount of alcohol. Thus, the concentration of a fragrance is different if it is an eau de cologne, an eau de toilette, or an eau de parfum!

Concentrate

This is the composition to which alcohol is added to make a perfume.

Concrete

The concrete is a solid paste obtained from a raw material (always vegetable) thanks to the principle of solvent extraction. It is both coloured and fragrant.

Distillation

Distillation is one of the possible processes in the different methods of making perfume. It makes it possible to obtain the essential oil of a raw material thanks to the separation of its constituents by boiling and then condensing the vapour.

Eau de cologne

Eau de cologne today designates a category of perfume containing between 4 and 6% of essences. But it is also a reference to the original eau de cologne, which remains a source of inspiration regularly revisited by the biggest perfume houses. The history of the cult fragrance that is eau de cologne dates back to the 18th century.

Eau de parfum

An eau de parfum is composed of 10 to 22% of essences. However, some eau de parfum can be as high as 25%. In general, the higher the concentration, the more full-bodied and long-lasting the perfume will be. (At Sillages Paris, our perfumers only create eau de parfum, which are highly concentrated in raw materials. We thus ensure the longevity of the perfume, even for the most delicate and subtle formulas.)

Eau de toilette

Eau de toilettes are perfumes with a lower concentration of essences than eau de parfums. They contain between 5 and 12% perfume.

Enfleurage

Enfleurage is the oldest technique of the various perfume manufacturing methods. As its name suggests, it is a technique that allows flower essences to be extracted using fat. This tedious and expensive process can still be used to treat delicate flowers such as jasmine, rose or orange blossom, but it has become very rare. It involves depositing petals on fat, leaving them on, and repeating the process several times so that the odour permeates thoroughly. The end result is an absolute. Here’s a fun fact: for those who have read it, this is the technique used by Jean-Baptiste Grenouille in Le Parfum by Patrick Süskind!

Essence

Synonymous with essential oil.

Essential oil

An essential oil is one of the possible results in the different methods of manufacturing a perfume. It is extracted from plants by distillation or expression and has been used since Antiquity (notably in medicine). In perfumery, essential oil is also less intense than an absolute.

Expression

Expression is one of the possible processes in the different methods of manufacturing a perfume. It is used to obtain the essential oil of citrus fruits. To do this, small holes are drilled in the peel to recover the essence. We thus obtain a liquid which is a mixture of water and essential oil. The essential oil part is then separated from the water with a centrifuge.

Extraction

Extraction is one of the possible processes in the different methods of manufacturing a perfume. This process consists of mixing plants with a solvent (usually ethanol) that is heated. With the heat, the solvent will evaporate, and we obtain a waxy material loaded with essences: the concrete. This concrete is then mixed with alcohol so that the odorous molecules can pass through it. Finally, the alcohol is filtered to obtain the absolute.

Extract

The perfume extract is the highest concentration, exceeding 20% perfume concentrate. It is also called “Perfume”.

Facet

In the vocabulary of perfume, a facet is a sub-category that allows a perfume to be better defined, in addition to its olfactory family. It defines a unique coloration that a scent can take on.

(Olfactory) family

Fragrance families are categories that classify fragrances according to their ingredients. There are 7 olfactory families: woody, chypre, leathery (vegan!), floral, ferns, citrus and oriental. This classification system remains the official reference guide in the field, and is enriched by sub-categories called facets. These allow us to better define a perfume’s particularity by designating it as spicy, powdery, sweet, or green.

Formula

The formula is a list of ingredients that make up a perfume. Once the perfumer has all the ingredients he needs, he mixes them according to a dosage that respects the perfume’s balance. The formula is kept a secret to prevent copying!

Fougère

This term is used to define an olfactory family that takes its name from a perfume created in 1882 for the house of Houbigant, Fougère Royale. It is a family composed of fragrances with a lavender head, a floral geranium heart, and a coumarin/oakmoss base.

Fragrance

A fragrance is a pleasant smell. By extension, we speak of a fragrance to designate a perfume.

Heady

We use this adjective to designate a perfume whose intensity rises to our heads, intoxicating us.

Hespéridé

It is an olfactory family composed of fresh and sparkling scents made from citrus zests (like eau de cologne).

Intensity

We speak of intensity in perfume vocabulary to define a fragrance that diffuses well. A powerful perfume will diffuse in the air at a greater radius around the wearer. The extent or power is not necessarily linked to the duration of a perfume on the skin. Thus, some light perfumes (floral or even colognes) can last all day without diffusing as much. 

Juice

In the vocabulary of perfume, the juice refers to the final fragrance (the alcoholic solution).

Leather

Leather smell is a synthetic (therefore vegan) note that reproduces different smells that real leather can have. Leather belongs to the so-called “animal” notes. The different smells that leather can take on are created via dry notes of smoke, burnt wood, birch, and tobacco.

Maceration

Maceration is one of the steps in the manufacturing of a perfume. It involves letting the concentrate of raw materials rest in alcohol to regulate the power of the perfume.

Maturation

Maturation is one of the stages in the manufacturing of a perfume. It involves letting the concentrate of a perfume rest for several days or even weeks to reach the perfect harmony between the molecules that compose it.

Mute

In perfumery, we speak of a “mute” flower when it doesn’t give off any scent once extracted. This is the case with lily of the valley or violet. Perfumers reconstitute the scent of a silent flower using synthetic molecules, some of which may be derived from natural molecules. For example, iris is sometimes used to create the scent of violets.

Niche

The term “niche perfume” or “niche” refers to a small market that targets an insider audience. Niche brands aim to create perfumes that are considered to be real luxury items, thus justifying their higher prices. The priority of these houses is to offer unique olfactory signatures.

Nose

In addition to the part of our face that houses the sense of smell, the nose also designates a perfumer (at Sillages Paris we call them Supernose Perfumers!).

Note

In perfumery, a note is a simple odor that describes a “facet” of a perfume, a bit like in oenology. For example, a wine or champagne can be said to have peach, buttery, and brioche notes. We can say of a perfume that it has “leathery” or “almond” notes. It can even be said of an ingredient! Damask rose or Rose Damascena has lemony, spicy, and fruity notes. We also talk about top notes, heart notes, and base notes to describe the 3 levels of an olfactory pyramid.

(Top) Note

The top notes are the ones you smell when you spray your perfume. More volatile than the other heart and bottom notes, they last a few minutes before disappearing. They are usually composed of citrus fruits (lemon, tangerine, etc.) or aromatics (lavender, rosemary, etc.).

(Heart) Note

The heart notes make up the main theme and personality of a perfume. They follow the top notes, last about 6 hours, and are composed of flowers and fruit.

(Base) Note

The base notes are the heaviest. Woods, leathery accords, amber, and musks are often found in these notes. These denser notes reveal themselves slowly over the course of the day but last for a very long time (sometimes until the next day). In the end, it is the base notes that create our emotional fidelity to a fragrance!

Olfaction

Function that allows us to perceive smells. We talk about an olfactory family as a kind of “family of smells”.

(Perfume) Organ

The perfume organ is a piece of furniture designed to store bottles of raw materials used by the perfumer in the laboratory. At Sillages Paris, you can discover a 3.0. perfume organ in our workshops. We have deconstructed the image of a solitary piece of furniture to make it a space of discovery where you can walk around and discover the raw materials that our perfumers use in our compositions.

Oxidation

Oxidation is a chemical reaction caused by prolonged exposure to air, light, heat, etc. It alters your perfume’s smell, which is why you should take care to keep your Sillage in a dry place at a stable and moderate temperature and away from the sun.

Palette

In the vocabulary of perfume, this term designates the set of raw materials used by a perfumer (like a painter and his palette of colors!).

(Olfactory) pyramid

The olfactory pyramid is a representation that is used in the vocabulary of perfume to indicate the structure of a perfume. It represents at the top (at the very top) the ingredients that will be smelled first, then those that will be smelled during the day (heart notes, in the middle), and those that remain at the end of the day (base notes, at the bottom of the pyramid).

Raw material/ingredient

Raw materials are the ingredients used in the formulation of the perfume. They are referred to as natural when they are of plant or animal origin. Synthetic raw materials are created in the laboratory and can be 100% synthetic or derived from natural molecules. Perfumers have several thousand raw materials at their disposal to create their formulas. At Sillages Paris, our perfumers use natural ingredients whenever possible. And when certain ingredients cannot be extracted, or are of animal origin, synthetic raw materials that are composed of molecules found in nature are used.

Sillage

The sillage (or trail) is the soul of a perfume. It is the scented veil that a person leaves behind, their signature, and by extension, the memories we have of them.

Touch/wipe

In the vocabulary of perfume, a touch (or olfactory/scent touch) designates a strip of paper intended to smell a perfume and follow its evolution. These touches can also be called “wet buttons” (but that’s less chic).

Vegan

A vegan perfume contains no animal raw materials or materials that were derived from their exploitation, and has not been tested on animals.

Zest

The zest is the peel of citrus fruit that is extracted to isolate its odorous matter.

 

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