The history of perfume never ceases to fascinate us. Since the 19th century, a pivotal period in the development of modern perfumery, this luxury product has been subject to fashions and trends. Perfume trends have followed the major historical milestones that have marked society. And from the 1960s onward, things have accelerated: perfume was democratized after the end of the Second World War, and a moral revolution has been underway. More than a simple beauty ritual, the creation of new perfumes is now more than ever the embodiment of an era and a new way of living.
Saturday Night Fever (1977) via Elle
Perfume trend of the 1970s: sensuality and sophistication
To speak of the 1970s is to evoke the multitude of artistic movements that made up this decade. They embodied carefreeness, the power of youth, the emergence of disco, the beginnings of the punk movement, and hippie fashion all at the same time. Perfumery also embraced these trends to create new markets. After the 1960s, marked by a revival of eau de cologne and a boom in men’s fragrances, this new decade was embodied in sensual and sometimes scandalous perfumes.
The Perfume of scandal
The house of Yves Saint-Laurent launched its legendary perfume Opium in 1977. Both sensual and powerful, this oriental perfume surprised with its spicy and floral notes. Opium evoked scandal, provocation, and elegance. The Oriental inspiration behind this perfume obviously reminded us of the designer’s own inspirations, which could be found in his clothing designs. The bottle itself was a reference to an inro shape, which is a small tobacco box originating in Japan. When it was released, Opium caused a scandal. In addition to the direct reference to the drug, the advertising campaigns provoked and shocked. The perfume was seen as something unexpected, on the border between luxury and addiction.
Patchouli: the trendy ingredient of the decade
The perfume trend, as in fashion, is at Flower Power in the 1970s
The 1970s were marked by a need for freedom. The perfume trend of the time gave pride of place to natural materials, especially patchouli. Patchouli essence was used by both men and women. Often overdosed, its camphor smell became a symbol of renewal. This was particularly the case with hippies, who scented themselves directly with the pure essential oil. This is why nowadays this ingredient is considered a “vintage” scent. In 1971, the Réminiscence brand unveiled Patchouli, which was a woody fragrance with sensual, oriental notes that evoked the bohemian spirit and a desire to travel.
Sarah Jessica Parker (from Sex and the City) in the 1980s via WhoWhatWear
The 1980s: the years of excess
The 1980s were not just the decade of crimped hair, brightly coloured clothes, and the New Wave. In perfumery, the trend was towards opulence. The United States continued to impact European trends, and gradually, fruity notes began to appear in compositions. The time was ripe for self-assertion, and several fragrances celebrated the spirit of empowerment that shook the decade.
A heady fragrance
In 1985, the House of Christian Dior shook up the perfumery world by offering women around the globe its Poison. The perfume was a mysterious, bewitching, almost dangerous weapon of seduction that left a powerful trail. It was especially well-suited to white flowers enhanced with fruity and spicy notes over a base of amber and white musks. The bottle evoked an apple, both a forbidden fruit and a poisoned offering from fairy tales. When it was released, the fragrance didn’t meet with unanimous approval. In New York, for instance, some restaurants had signs reading “No Smoking, no Poison”. Even today, Poison still fascinates people with its very powerful smell that is somewhere between seductive and forbidden.
Coco after Chanel
Another mythical perfume from that era was Coco, which was launched in 1984 by the house of Chanel as a tribute to its creator. Both intoxicating and elegant, this powerful fragrance drew its inspiration from the baroque decorations that adorned Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment. It’s fruity, spicy, and floral fragrance was a true invitation to travel to the Orient. The house even decided to reuse a bottle identical to the one containing N°5 (1921). Reflecting the spirit of the decade, this perfume celebrated freedom and self-affirmation. With Inès de la Fressange as its muse (then Vanessa Paradis in the 1990s), Coco, without doubt, remained one of the most famous perfumes of the 1980s.
Fragrance trend of the 1990s: sweetness and comfort
After the previous decade’s opulent creations, the perfumers of the 1990s produced more sober, authentic and comforting fragrances. As a result, the trend was towards freshness with marine accords and sweetness with the return of vanilla and its youthful scent. The 1990s also marked the beginning of unisex fragrances. More than ever, women and men desired simplicity.
An ode to the natural
One of the most famous floral fragrances of this period was Trésor, which the Lancôme brand launched in 1990. In the spirit of freedom and fantasy, the advertising campaign called for natural elegance and refinement. In 1992, it became the world’s best-selling perfume. It’s light, spring-like heart was reminiscent of the scent of certain cosmetics, thanks in particular to a powdery violet note dressed in rose, lily of the valley and apricot on a musky base. The elegance of Trésor was encapsulated in its bottle: a little jewel in the shape of an inverted pyramid inspired by the Art Deco movement and the Louvre.
Freshness and freedom
Campagne de CK One, un classique des années 1990
The flagship perfume of the 1990s, CK One, shook up perfumery’s conventions. Calvin Klein launched this perfume in 1995 and inaugurated a new unisex trend. The bottle’s design was sleek, and the juice unveiled citrusy, fruity, spicy-floral notes over a slightly musky base. When it was launched, the perfume was an instant success and became a top seller across genders.
Launched in 1996 by Giorgio Armani, Aqua di Giò (for men and women) also remained a classic of the 1990s. The goal was to create a perfume with accents of freedom that evoked the elemental man and woman. The marine accords recalled the smell of the sea and the strength of the elements. The brand achieved this by using marine notes, combined with the softness of khaki and the power of woody notes.
A treat from the heavens
In 1992, Thierry Mugler launched Angel, a perfume that would become one of the greatest successes in perfumery. When it came out, the fragrance was a real novelty. It paved the way for a sweeter facet in the oriental family. Its appetizing scent was reminiscent of childhood, and its sweetness (chocolate, caramel, cotton candy), were all married to a patchouli note. The bluish star-shaped bottle evoked the designer’s futuristic looks. Angel became a symbol of its time, and represented the glamorous femme fatale.
Perfume trend of the 2000s: the triumph of femininity
Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie filming the reality TV series The Simple Life in 2007
In the 2000s, everything was accelerating. The Internet and social networks were spreading all over the world. It was also the time of the first influencers (Paris Hilton!), and fashion was all about bling-bling. In perfumery, the trend was towards an assertive femininity. The woman of the 2000s enjoyed immediate pleasure, imposed herself, and even provoked. Men’s perfumes ventured into more floral and oriental accords. Niche perfumery also began to make its appearance, as well as a growing preference for customization and personalization.
Bling-bling seduction
In the early 2000s, fruity-floral fragrances appeared on the perfumery market. J’adore de Dior became the emblem of this new genre. Launched by the brand in 1999, the fragrance evoked absolute femininity, seduction, and glamour. Its fruity notes (with apricot and plum in particular) blended with the floral notes of jasmine, tuberose, and violet. The bottle echoed the conventions of bling-bling with its golden color and streaked neck. Charlize Theron became the face of this ultra-sensual perfume in its advertising campaigns.
A perfume of contrast
The fragrances of the 2000s also evoked a more delicate femininity. This was notably the case for floral fragrances with lighter, fresher accords like Flower by Kenzo. When it was launched in 2000, thanks to the image of a poppy invading the streets, this perfume evoked an entire generation’s longing to return to nature. It’s rose petal and jasmine notes blended with spices before settling on a base of vanilla and musks. The perfume became a symbol of a more contrasted femininity: the image of the strong yet sensitive woman.
Fragrance trend for 2010: sweet, sweet, sweet
Whether financial, geopolitical, or environmental, the decade began with an unprecedented crisis affecting the entire world. As a response, perfumes embodied a need to be comforted with sweet and gentle notes.
Flowers of evil
In times of crisis, perfumery adapts to the mood of the decade. The house of Yves Saint-Laurent thus gave birth to Black Opium (2014). Both the juice and the bottle were black, while the name referred directly to the mythical perfume of the 1970s, but with a more casual and contemporary side. The coffee top notes contrasted with fruity notes before giving way to a more floral heart and a woodsy, sensual trail. It was an ultra-fruity and sweet rebellion that aimed to reassure a new generation.
The return of comforting notes
In the same vein of sugar-covered flowers, Lancôme launched La Vie est belle in 2012. Here, there was no darkness: the perfume exuded joy and good humor. The fragrance was a sweet floral that wanted to act like an antidepressant. Jasmine, orange blossom and patchouli were wrapped in a comforting praline note.
The 2020s: towards personalization?
So, how do we define the trend that awaits us in this new decade? We can sense a trend for perfumes that smell clean and reassuring. But with more and more perfumes and brands that are emerging, it’s becoming difficult to know which perfumes will become the mythical showcases of tomorrow.
Still, we’re seeing that the time has come for personalization. Women and men all over the world want to express themselves and to stand out from the crowd. So that means a taste for personalized fragrances that are very different from the usual standard perfumes.
Environmental issues also raise questions about the use of animal raw materials in perfumes. So the decade began with a strong desire to know what we wear, what we eat, and what we perfume ourselves with.
But one thing is certain: uniqueness is driving these trends. At Sillages Paris, we offer Haute Parfumerie 3.0 that allows you to personalize your quest for the ideal perfume by choosing the perfect combination of scents created by our perfumers.
So, are you ready to take the plunge?
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