What is commonly known as perfume actually includes several types of products: perfume extract, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne. So what differentiates these scented preparations?
What is the difference between eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne?
What determines which category a perfume belongs to is its concentration of odorous materials. This is because perfume is composed of a concentrate that has been diluted in alcohol. A concentrate is a mixture of pure raw materials: essential oils, natural absolutes, and/or synthetic substances.
The concentrate is diluted in varying quantities of alcohol to achieve the desired effect. And the higher the proportion of concentrate, the stronger the fragrance will be. The classification is as follows: an eau de cologne generally contains 4 to 6% of concentrate; they are the lightest waters. An eau de toilette contains between 7 and 10% of concentrate. And an eau de parfum contains 10 to 20%. Some eau de parfum can be as high as 25% – the higher the concentration, the more full-bodied and long-lasting the fragrance will be. And finally, the perfume extract, which exceeds 20% concentration, is a valuable product.
(At Sillages Paris, our perfumers only create eau de parfum, which contains a high concentration of raw materials. We thus ensure that our perfumes are long-lasting, even for the most delicate and subtle formulas).
What are the characteristics of eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne?
A price difference
The consequence of differing concentrations is a difference in prices. This is because raw materials are very expensive, especially when they are natural. So the less you use, the less expensive the final product is.
This is why colognes are generally cheaper. Next come eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and finally the extract.
A difference in longevity and application
Another consequence of differing concentrations is the difference in longevity. The less concentrated eau de cologne produces a fresh effect and has a light scent that dissipates after one to two hours, whereas the eau de toilette lasts for three to four hours. By contrast, eau de parfum and perfume extracts have a higher concentration of odorous materials. The eau de parfums will thus generally last up to 6 hours for the less concentrated ones, and the extracts all day long. Although of course, their odor will fade over time.
As a result, the way to perfume oneself varies according to the type of eau used. For example, to maintain its refreshing effect and renew the smell, one should spray an eau de cologne several times throughout the day. The lightest and freshest scents can also be used in “splash” bottles. The splash method uses the perfume directly from the bottle, without the spray nozzle. These have been used forever as an aftershave for men. It remains affordable to do so and use your fragrance in larger quantities and more often since eau de cologne are generally less expensive than other perfumes.
How to apply precious fragrances
The eau de toilette will also need to be re-applied from time to time. But as they are already more concentrated, they are generally used as a spray and not as a splash so as not to waste the product.
The more concentrated eau de parfums won’t actually need to be re-applied during the course of the day. But you might want to spritz in the evening before going out to restore some of the intensity of the perfume you’ve been wearing all day.
Finally, the highly concentrated perfume extract will last a very long time. So there’s no need to apply it more than once! Extracts are generally applied in very small quantities because they are so expensive: just a drop on the wrist, and one in the crook of the neck.
Differences in formulation between eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne
The category to which a product belongs is therefore defined by its concentration. But each category also has its own particularities in terms of formulation. Indeed, each type of water (eau de cologne, eau de toilette, or eau de parfum) is not composed of the same ingredients. Moreover, when you buy the eau de toilette version of your favorite eau de parfum, the smell is often quite different, why?
Eau de cologne
Eau de colognes are ultra-fresh compositions. They are generally composed mainly of citrus fruits and aromatic plants.
The first eau de cologne was invented in the 18th century in Cologne by Jean-Marie Farina. He was the first person to come up with the idea of mixing essential oils with alcohol, to create a freshly scented solution. And it was a real revolution because in the 17th century it was customary to use heady perfumes such as cinnamon or sandalwood oil. People used very strong and heady perfumes to conceal body odours caused by a general lack of hygiene. But as the quality of hygiene improved, people could now opt for lighter compositions.
Farina’s eau de cologne was a huge success at the time of the Empire and was widely imitated. It contained citrus fruits (lemon, bergamot) and a large number of aromatic herbs (rosemary, thyme, lavender, fennel, clove, juniper berries, aniseed, etc.). Today, eau de cologne more generally refers to waters containing between 4 and 6% of essence. But we always find in their composition this spirit of freshness with citrus fruits and aromatic herbs.
Eau de toilette
Eau de toilettes are fairly fresh and light compositions, and are generally more airy than eau de parfum. This is due to a lower concentration, as well as the choice of the ingredients themselves.
The most commonly used ingredients are usually fresh citrus notes, delicate flowers, and crunchy fruits. Consequently, an eau de toilette made from a successful eau de parfum will smell a little different because it is a reinterpretation with different, lighter ingredients. These are generally presented as good alternatives for the Spring or Summer season, when your signature fragrance is too intense for the sunny days. The eau de toilettes have a refreshingly spring-like or summery tonality.
Eau de parfum
Eau de parfums are richer compositions. This is due to their higher concentration of raw materials. But also because perfumers work on notes more intensely. Of course, you’ll also find flowers and citrus fruits, but in deeper, more powerful accords. The base notes are also more present, and they will really permeate the skin and last throughout the day.
So eau de parfums have more character than eau de toilettes; they have more contrasts and are more assertive.
Perfume extract
Perfume extracts are the most concentrated products, and their composition contains powerful, deep, and syrupy ingredients. Perfume extracts contain headier and more intense juices that often contain ingredients such as vanilla, oud and sandalwood, myrrh, etc.
To sum up, for example, in a range of blackcurrant perfumes, the eau de toilette will use blackcurrant sorbet notes, the eau de parfum will use blackcurrant berries, and the perfume extract will use blackcurrant liqueur. That’s three different concentrations and three variations of one ingredient!
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