Perfume that smells clean: a trend that says a lot about our times.
“Perfume that smells clean” or “Perfume that smells like soap” are some of the top Google requests these days. Why does the trend towards clean-smelling perfume say so much about the current atmosphere? Perfume trends have always mirrored the social, political, and economic upheavals of its time. This is because perfume has a powerful influence on our moods.
So it acts as a talisman, a suit of armour, a revealer, or a personality booster for those who wear it. In this way, it reflects the character of people and their time, which influences the general mood.
For example, the court of King Louis XIV was known to reek (a sweet mixture of body pestilence and heady perfumes). But don’t think those perfumes smelled like the ones we find in perfumery today! At a time when French perfumery was emerging, the fashionable perfumes of the day would be unbearable for today’s nose. Animal ingredients such as civet, musk tonkin and ambergris were very popular, and generally smelled of buttocks, sex and feces.
Why did they smell like this? In The Civilization of Smells, historian Robert Muchenbled says that these “virile” scents reflect a violent period of war and conquest. Indeed, the Sun King is best known for his participation in France’s cultural influence with Versailles and the creation of the French luxury industry. But above all, he was a king who spent his life waging war on his neighbours.
“Dirty” perfumes, fashionable in times of war, have given way to softer perfumes in times of peace.
Towards the end of his life, an old and tired Louis XIV (he had a very long reign) could no longer tolerate strong perfumes and would only perfume himself with light citrus and floral scented waters. And then began the Age of Enlightenment. It was a graceful and delicate era when the nobility and bourgeoisie met in salons perfumed with floral and citrus scents. Bathing became widespread during the reign of Louis XV. And it was no longer considered sexy to smell like a rutting beast.
Returning to the contemporary era, each decade can be defined by a mood that shapes how people view society and themselves. In the 1970s, the era of Flower Power and hippies was characterized by chypre in every sense. Think of those mythical scents that smell like moss and patchouli. Then came the 1980s with its excesses and shoulder pads. It was the period when scents of character triumphed. It was also a time of economic growth, conquest, overconsumption, and fun: more was more!
But when the 1990s arrived, the economic and geopolitical situation was no longer rosy. The mood was one of sobriety or decadence, which led to the emergence of the grunge movement. This was when Kate Moss broke into the fashion scene with her cult campaigns for Calvin Klein, and Nirvana rocketed to the top of the charts. The keywords for perfumes at the time? Naturalness, purity, freshness, genderfluidity… In the prevailing anxiety, we return to reassuring smells that remind us of the skin of someone we love, or the smells of a safe home.
The 2010s: the great return of gourmands and fruity scents
The 2010s were years of reconstruction after the economic crisis of 2008. Recovery was slow, but optimistic, and it was the time of the explosion of social media. The mood? Extroversion and fun. YOLO was the half-serious, half-ironic motto of the time. The big perfumes that came out at the time were powerful, but a far cry from the heady personalities of the 1970s or 1980s. It was a time when gourmand (sweet) and fruity scents reigned supreme.
A new decade, a new mood, a new perfume trend? The time for change seems to have come. New perfume launches by major brands are often conditioned by extensive market research and consumer tests (which often limit creativity and the ability to create original fragrances.) That’s why we can deduce current trends by looking at the perfumes that have recently been released on the market. The trend we’re seeing is a big comeback of the perfume that smells clean.
In 2020, where does this desire for clean scents, soaps, skin, cotton, and transparency come from?
The last few years have seen the explosion of the healthy trend (if you can still call it a trend). The French have gradually given up béarnaise steak and chips, cigarettes, a quick bite at the counter, and a total aversion to sport for a healthier lifestyle. And throughout the West, healthy lifestyles (sport, healthy food, meditation, alternative medicine, etc.) have emerged as a response to the risks of modern life.
Globally, the 2020s are starting on a big issue: the environment and its protection at all costs. With the widespread awareness created by figures or groups such as Greta Thunberg or Extinction Rebellion, people are free to speak out, and we are bombarded with anxiety-inducing news. What you eat is dangerous. What you put on your skin is dangerous. The air you breathe is dangerous. And nature as a whole is not in good shape either. Mental health, which is seriously threatened by environmental stresses, is the hot topic in society.
Reaction ===> it started with the “hygge” trend, a Danish recipe for happiness,. And then came the emergence of the concept of “selfcare”. We are looking for comfort and reassurance at all costs. We want scents that remind us of skin, cotton, soap , babies… Anything to remind us of the clean linen in your home (security), the tender touch of a loved one (darling, parent, baby), a flowery field (nature without danger). More and more people don’’t feel bad about cancelling their outings to stay at home. The ideal program: light a candle, stuff yourself into a plaid, and watch Netflix. The JOMO now takes precedence over the FOMO of the previous decade.
“Clean” perfumes are a soft, comfortable, and reassuring cocoon, like arms embracing you or your duvet warming you up. WE LOVE IT!!!!
The key ingredients for a perfume that smells clean
White musks
The great classic of clean is white musks. Their indefinable smell is perceived differently by people. What is certain is that the smell is soft as cotton, and has an undeniable sensual background! White musks give an aphrodisiac skin scent, which melts on the wearer and blends in with their own scent. They are often used to evoke the smell of skin, cotton, and clean linen.
Orange blossom
Like its white musk friends, orange blossom has a certain sensual side that makes its pure notes interesting. Science has apparently discovered that orange blossom is universally loved, unlike any other scent whose appreciation depends on a subjective and personal culture. Why is this? Because it shares molecules with the smell of a baby. Therefore, this skin odour is not 100% “clean” but evokes a feeling of purity: that of a newborn baby’s skin, soft and tender.
Aldehydes
Aldehydes are synthetic molecules. (We will soon give you an update on synthetic vs. natural ingredients. And spoiler alert: don’t expect a fight to the death between Good and Evil! Synthetics are often created from natural ingredients, like the ones at Sillages Paris). However, some aldehydes exist in their natural state, notably in citrus ingredients. (a technical term for citrus fruits). Aldehydes have a soapy smell that can sometimes be perceived as metallic, but also mellow and warm. They are often used to evoke the smell of candle wax or hot iron.
Lavender
The name “lavender” comes from the Latin “lavare” (to wash), which is also a great classic of cleanliness in the West. Lavender gives off an aromatic, herbaceous, and camphorated scent that gives the fragrance fresh and clean notes. Fun fact: in Antiquity, the Romans used to chew lavender to freshen their breath! The essential oil of lavender has calming properties, and its scent gives you a feeling of well-being. It is often used to evoke the smell of soap, laundry, and freshness. Another fun fact: this ingredient (in its natural form, as used by Sillages Paris ;)) costs a fortune, which is why it is called “the blue gold of Perfumery”.
Mint, eucalyptus
Same thing, classic! The aromatic ingredients give a serious boost to any formula. They are often used in invigorating fragrances, such as the smell of a good ice-cold shower.
Violet and iris
Like orange blossom, and depending on their use, violets and irises are Not That Innocent! Their scent is floral and powdery, but with a woody side for one and an earthy for the other, which gives them great elegance. (If you want to know, Iris costs a fortune. It’s the most expensive ingredient in perfumery!) Nevertheless, their powdery notes (like a make-up powder) give a great feeling of softness.
So, are you curious? Every perfume collection deserves to have its cocooning scent, to give you a peachy feeling on gray days!
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