What could be more natural than to perfume oneself when jumping out of bed, getting out of the shower, or on the doorstep before going out? And yet, behind this small gesture that seems so simple, so routine, hides an infinitely rich and fascinating thousand-year-old tradition. Let’s discover the history of perfume together!
Embark with us on a journey through centuries and continents to discover the history of an art that has become an industry.
History of Perfume – Chapter 1: Antiquity
Ancient Egypt
Our journey begins in Ancient Egypt, around 3000 BC, the cradle of the mythical and fantasized Egyptian civilization. This epoch was marked by mysticism and the omnipresence of the divine, which included the world of perfume.
Indeed, the perfumers of that time were none other than the priests, who worked with raw materials to make perfumed oils, resins, ointments, liqueurs, and incense. All these essences were then used in various divine cults. Some preparations were burned in homage to the Gods, and the fragrant smoke that emanated from them rose voluptuously towards them. Perfume was thus a means of communicating with the divine.
Other preparations were used in embalming rituals. This practice consisted of preventing the body’s putrefaction and delicately perfuming it: from the inside by filling it with aromatic herbs, and from the outside by covering it with strips and ointments. By this operation, the Egyptians purified the bodies of the deceased and ensured their access to the Beyond. A “Perfumed One” was, therefore, a soul that had attained divine status through embalming.
The Egyptians became masters in the field of perfumes and exported them throughout the ancient world.
Initially reserved for the divine, it was the tumultuous Cleopatra who changed the use of perfume and brought it into the era of femininity! She used to take baths of donkey’s milk infused with flowers and almonds to make her skin smooth like silk.
Would you like to play Cleopatra? Find the voluptuous scents of milk, almond, and white flowers among all our ingredients!)
Greco-Roman Civilization
Our journey continues on the other side of the Mediterranean, in the West, in the time of the Greek-Roman civilization. Here too, the Gods were at the centre of daily life, and the Greeks paid homage to them by burning incense and resins to produce thick, fragrant fumes. The Romans, who took over the Greek Pantheon and adapted it to their culture, also took over the Hellenic religious rites. The word perfume comes from “per fumum”, which means “by smoke” in Latin.
With the annexation of Egypt by the Roman Empire at the death of Cleopatra, it is the apogee of perfumes. Aromatic preparations flowed in floods, and the Romans made unbridled use of them!
History of Perfume – Chapter 2: The Middle Ages
The fallen perfume…
We continue our journey through the history of perfume to stop at the Middle Ages. This period is marked by the fall of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, which brought with it the disgraceful decline in the use of perfume throughout Europe.
Formerly a mystical object that allowed communication with the divine, perfume lost its status and its use was forbidden because it was considered impure. Its reputation became tarnished as it was associated with seduction and, therefore, with evil, pagan beliefs, and even witchcraft.
But during this time, perfumery know-how survived in the Orient. Alchemists invented alcohol distillation and paved the way for modern perfumery techniques!
The fragrance that protects and cares
At that time, people associated sickness with odours. What smelled bad made you sick, and a sick person smelled bad. So a new idea emerged: what smelled good would help to fight disease! Aromatherapy, or treatment using smells and essential oils, was then “invented”. People could treat themselves by washing their bodies with aromatic waters or keeping small diffusers (pomanders or sweet apples) filled with aromatic herbs.
In the 14th century, rosemary was used in particular to combat the Plague. It was possible to drink its essential oil to purify the body, and apply it to the affected areas to cleanse the skin. In fact, the first alcohol-based perfume, “L’Eau de la Reine de Hongrie” (Hungarian Queen’s Water), was composed of wine and rosemary water. The Queen used to drink it and wash her body to regenerate and prevent illness and aging! This may sound ridiculous, and yet we now know that the healing and purifying properties of certain essential oils (including rosemary) are real!
Even today, aromatic fragrances are still highly valued for their freshness and the positive energy they provide. And at Sillages Paris, we love them (you can find our aromatic ingredients in our palette of 64 raw materials)!
History of Perfumery – Chapter 3: The Renaissance
The time of the explorers
Let’s continue our journey through the history of perfume: and head back to the time of the great explorers! Magellan, Vasco de Gama, Christopher Columbus and many others ventured to faraway lands. They brought home with them new precious and fragrant raw materials. Jasmine, amber, vanilla, and spices were introduced to Europe and offered a multitude of new possibilities for the noses and palates of the people!
Perfumes to conceal odours
This epoch was marked by a lack of hygiene, as people rarely washed their whole body. Among the nobles and the wealthy bourgeoisie, strong and ultra-heady perfumes were in fashion. Newly discovered animal musk, ambergris, civet, tuberose, and jasmine were used in many powerful perfumes. They served to conceal the stench of bodies.
The ambergris and musk tonkin used at the time are, in fact, nothing like the amber and white musks used today. The ambergris came from intestinal secretions of the sperm whale (a bit like vomit if you like). As for musk tonkin, it came from a gland located under the belly of a male musk chevrotin. In both cases, the killing of the animal was inevitable. Since then, these practices have thankfully been banned!
(At Sillages Paris, all our formulas are vegan and no animal testing is done. And if you’re still hesitating to switch to vegan cosmetics, we’ll tell you why it’s fabulous here).
History of Perfume – Chapter 4: The 18th century and the birth of a French industry
The King’s Court and perfume: a love story
Let us continue our journey through the centuries, and stop at the sumptuous Court of Versailles. The Sun King was passionate about the arts and particularly perfumery. Nicknamed the “Doux Fleurant” (Sweet Smelling), he introduced the fashion for opulent and ubiquitous perfumes. It is even said that he perfumed the water of the fountains of Versailles!
At the time, it was the Court that dictated customs to French society, but also to foreign courts that closely followed French fashions. Perfume thus became a must in the eyes of all the Courts of Europe, and its consumption exploded!
The glover-perfumers of Grasse
The Court of Versailles consumed an enormous amount, with an increasing number of perfumes! Faced with these growing needs, France began to locally produce the essences needed to make the perfumes. The region of Grasse had an ideal climate for the cultivation of flowers, especially roses and jasmine. (To find out more about rose perfumes, click here.)
Initially, this region specialized in the production of leather, and in particular, gloves. But a problem arose: the process of tanning leather emitted a terrible odour, and a foul-smelling cloud was constantly floating around Grasse. The glove makers decided to take advantage of the perfume craze and the extraordinary climate of the area. So they became glove-makers and perfumers. They began to perfume their gloves to conceal the smell of tannin, and their fields of flowers quickly invaded the region.
While the perfumes worn at that time were initially rather heady, the trend evolved during the Age of Enlightenment. More and more people turned to lighter, more subtle, and more elaborate scents.
Histoire du Parfum – Chapter 5: The 19th century and the modernity of French perfume
The Empire and the success of eau de cologne
We continue our journey through the history of perfume in the 19th century. At that time, perfume was first shunned because of its association with the image of kings that bloody revolutions had toppled. But Napoleon and Empress Josephine were quick to reverse the trend. They were passionate about eau de cologne with fresh citrus fruits and light scents. And soon the whole of society adopted them! The concentration of fragrant raw materials in eau de cologne was quite low as they contained, on average, 2 to 3% essential oils. These fragrant eau de colognes were, therefore, cheaper and more accessible, which accelerated their success!
(NB: At Sillages Paris, we do not make eau de cologne but eau de parfum, which have the advantage of lasting longer. But if you’re a fan of the cologne spirit, choose a host of citrus (citrus fruits) in your formula!).
The 19th century: a technological turning point
The 19th century marked a real turning point in the history of perfumery. New natural extraction techniques were invented, which considerably widened the scope of possibilities for perfumers.
At that time, some perfumers made a name for themselves by marketing their creations on a large scale. This was the case, for example, of Paul Parquet with “Fougère Royale”, Aimé Guerlain with “Jicky”, and then Jacques Guerlain with “L’Heure bleue”.
Meanwhile, the rise of chemistry allowed for the development of synthetic molecules, making perfume more accessible to the general public. Nowadays, you can perfume everything: laundry, wardrobes, interiors, etc. Simply put, the 19th century was the dawn of modern perfumery!
History of Perfume – Chapter 6: The Contemporary Era
The 20th century: the Belle Epoque
It was in the 20th century that perfumery took on the face we know today. It is the century that saw the birth and growth of the great names in perfumery that would establish France’s reputation for Haute Parfumerie. And from this French know-how were born iconic perfumes that became worldwide successes #cocorico!
It was also during this period that perfumery became associated with couture. Indeed, many fashion designers launched their own perfumes, such as Chanel n°5, Miss Dior, and L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci.
French perfumery was at its peak. Although its growth slowed considerably during the Second World War, production did not stop, and the boom resumed after the conflict had ended!
21st century: perfumery 2.0
The continuing industrialization of perfumery is allowing for the democratization of perfume, which is becoming a kind of daily luxury. This has contributed to the enormous success of some perfumes, but also to the decline of their fabulous aura.
The downside is that the trend to standardize perfumes is making it increasingly difficult to find unique perfumes at a fair price. Yesterday’s iconic perfumes have become the most worn fragrances in the world, and there is nothing more strange than smelling the same as a neighbour.
A custom-made perfume is out of reach for most purses. So some houses, especially in niche perfumery, are trying to restore their legitimacy. But often at a premium price. We are all writing the contemporary history of perfume, and Sillages Paris is committed to Haute Parfumerie 3.0. Proud of its heritage and its great tradition, Haute Parfumerie 3.0 enters the contemporary era by putting perfume back at the heart of the process. Not the muse, not the ad, not a slogan. The perfume!
The return to nature and trends such as “selfcare” are pushing people to rediscover and listen to their bodies and sensations. New perfumery is part of this groundbreaking movement. We want to relearn how to feel, understand and trust what we apply to our bodies. One thing is certain: the Revolution will be perfumed ☺
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